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Saturday, March 21, 2009

At Weddings Wooooo


Bong Nan (who sews in the market) and I!


My friend K'mom at her mom's cousin's wedding in a poom/rice field.


The table where all the money-giving happens.


2 little girls...dressed up!


My friend Bong Rut all dressed up for her cousin's wedding.


Random cute little kid.


Bride and groom!


Cutting the cake.


Slow dance time.


More slow dancing. Reminds you a little of bar/bat mitzvah parties, no?


Saa Ret. my favorite fruit lady, and I


Mahp, who teaches me Khmer. I teach her English back. She sells school supplies and sugarcane juice by the school.


S'rey Mom, Bong Nan's daughter, one of my students, and one of my soccer girls!


Ohm Ran (nom ban chock lady) dressed up!


Some of Ohm Ran's neighbors dressed up to help serve ice and stuff

Dang Tung Family Photos


Lydy anxious to get back home after an adventure to a neighboring town.


My brother's mom--we went to her house in his home poom for Chinese New Year.


Bong Chan and Bong Ann hanging out.


Bong Ann preparing food at her parents' house when we went there to open up rice. I helped a little! But I was slow, so they had the man get back to work.


Li-Ching and I! I was trying to keep her from fussing.


Lydy wearing PJs that match her bun chai-oo (yellow rice pancake usually served with fish sauce and pieces of pork).

Monday, March 9, 2009

Life Through February

Life is good, filled with people and smiles and learning all the time. The school year is winding down, now, because there's a two-week break for Khmer New Year in April after which people apparently only trickle in, and it's March now, so it's close to April. So they're already trickling out. In previous months, the days with lower numbers of students could be attributed to patterns in the rice-farming schedule, but now it's plain old not feeling like coming. Even so, there are still a good number of students (usually 25+ in each class), and none of my co-teachers have given up coming, so that's good.

My relationship with my family is developing--my Big Brother and Big Sister now like to 'ni'iyay leyn,' joke around, basically every day. It's nice that they're close to my age because then a lot of our joking comes from topics that might be considered inappropriate if they were older. Li-Di and Li-Ching are as awesome as ever. Li-Ching is talking a little bit now and running all over the place, and they both like to dance. We have sporadic, but intense, dance parties at our house that all started because one day Li-Di and my little neighbor See-you Mai were messing around, and See-you Mai said 'Hey, Macarena!' instead of peek-a-boo. This led into questioning of whether or not they knew the dance, then a promise to teach the dance, then the super awesome dance parties that involve spastic dancing with 6+ of the neighborhood kids that is so creatively far from the typical khmer dancing that goes on at weddings, usually in a circle, with repeated motions that don't necessarily go along with the music.

Speaking of weddings, I've been to a bunch in the past few months as soon as wedding season started. My first two were free (and I wasn't really invited to them) because I went as my neighbor-Poo's plus-one. I'll make sure to put in a bunch of wedding pictures in right here when I do another picture post. It's a lot of fun to go, as long as the guys don't get too drunk and the dancing space is big enough. My friend Bong Nan who sews in the market made me a traditional silk skirt and a fun/hip-ish (hip for my town) sleeveless tube-topish green shirt that you can see me wearing in some of my wedding pics.

Since I last posted, I've had a few visitors from Americ! My friend Ben (who's currently studying Bengali in India with another federally-funded program) came in for New Year's, which I spent in my provincial town with a bunch of other volunteers. It was really nice to see him and play again. Sadly, he couldn't hang around long enough to come back to my site and attend the great and amazing 7th of January celebration that we have in town here every year (incidentally held this year on January 3rd). It's basically a Khmer version of a county fair. There's a singing competition in which I participated, singing a Khmer song (basically Can't Buy Me Love, but from the woman's perspective, so more like You Can't Buy My Love) and giving everyone a good laugh/something to talk about for weeks. As you can see in the picture I'm going to put up, they sent the dancing girls out to accompany me when they saw me moving to the beat, which helped ease me up. It was actually pretty fun; when they ask me to get up and sing at weddings, though, I tell them that one time a year is enough and to wait for the next 7th-January-party.

My other big Americ visitors were my uncle and aunt Mark and Jan, who are traveling around Asia on a sabbatical. I met them in my provincial town mid-January and brought them back to my rural site for a few weeks. Now, months later, everyone's still asking when they'll be back! It's going to be next week, I think--they've been traveling around other parts of the country (namely Siem Reap and Battambang) and loving it. When they were here, we had a really nice time, participating in a fundraiser at my school, a typical someone-died ceremony/party, and doing my favorite free-time activity, going around and visiting people at their houses, some close to the town center, some in the middle of rice fields. They also got me a mattress! So if reading this makes you think about coming to visit, there's a mattress in my upstairs 'sitting room' with your name on it. What was cool about their visiting was that they had such a good time just wandering around on their own and that the community really embraced them. Which is why everyone's looking forward to their return!

I started a girls' soccer team about a month and a half ago, and now we're about to head to nationals (at the end of the month), for which we automatically qualified because there are no other girls' soccer teams in our province. My girls are actually quite good, but I'm sure it's going to be terrifying for them playing against another team for the first time. Think of us at the end of March! I'm really happy that they're getting into it and getting aggressive when they play--in a place in which many girls are scared to answer questions in class, it's fulfilling to give them something of which to be proud and something to make them smile. Last weekend a couple of the volunteers from the first PC group (K1s) came in to help do a soccer workshop with them, which was really cool and gave me some great ideas. Now I'm working on getting them complete uniforms before the national tournament. So far I've figured out a shirt donation, and I think we're going to make some kind of 'nom' (Khmer cakey sometimes always starch-based category of goods) and sell them in order to buy shoes for the girls who don't yet have any, as well as shorts.

I'm also thinking about doing something with the local health center/healthcare providers, but I haven't decided on which issue I'm going to focus. That's something I'm going to be thinking about more and more as the students peter out.

In terms of my Khmer, I'm working on learning how to read with this really awesome woman who sells sugarcane juice and school supplies right by the gate of my school. I teach her English for 45 minutes once a week, and she helps me with Khmer for the same amount of time. I like her a lot as a person, and I'm enjoying getting to know more about her. I can read a little bit now, too, which is nice!

Also in terms of learning, I've been teaching some of the teachers at my school (plus my school director and the chief of military police of our district) conversational English for the past few weeks. It's a fun class to teach, because there are only 6-8 students every time, so we can really get everyone talking a lot. Plus, either they're really smart or they actually study between classes, since they're picking it up really quickly.

I just got up off my bed and wandered around the house in my sarong in the dark looking for my camera so that I could upload all the photos I've taken since the beginning of January and really do it up good, but I can't find it anywhere. It's getting close to 10 now, and I'm going to get up tomorrow at about 4 so that I can be up and on my way super early to go to Sihanoukville (Kampong Saom) tomorrow morning, which is where I'm going to use the internet to put up this post. I know I showed my Big Sister Ann pictures on it at midday today, but then I went outside to finish washing my clothes. I'm hoping she put it away somewhere and she'll be able to tell me where that somewhere is early early before I go so that I can at least take pictures when I go there! If you know me, you know how I am about not knowing where I am/where things are, so this is no surprise. So now, off to at least make the ones from November-January small enough to work.

Friday, December 26, 2008

A few shots from Rabbit Island!

Feet at the Rusty Keyhole the night before we headed to Rabbit Island



Hanging out on one of the creys during the daytime (from L) Emily, Joe, and Matt



Playing Frizz-Can, in which you have two people on a team and try to hit the can of the other team and knock it off a pole. You can guess what the consequences are if you lose.



Matt and Emily were taking beautiful pictures of each other with the the sunset, so I took a super sweet one of my sweet love, the Frizz Can



Ok, I gave in and took a nice one of the sunset.



Halloween time! Matt (Neo, from the Matrix) and I (Rebel at the Wat without a Cause)



More Halloween--Matt, Emily, and Joe

Some photos from my province!

My house!




My little sister #1,Li-Di in the lap of my aunt next door





My little sister #2, Li-Ching, also lap-sitting in the hammock!





One of my two favorite neighbors' dogs, Amop





My kitten, Coconut--she's awesome.




My big host sister and I



Li-Di with her happy face on





The stairs to get to my part of the house!




From here on...shots of my part of the house upstairs. This and the next two are of my sitting area.









This is the door to get out to my little porch!





Looking through my beads...



View from my porch!



More from the porch.



My bedroom




The khmer shirt I had made to attend ceremonies (and weddings, until I have a dress made...)

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Settling In

A lot has gone on since I last posted, so I will give you a basic recap of life.

In terms of my routine at home, I've settled into a permanent--at least until the end of December--teaching schedule, teaching Monday through Friday for 20 hours with a total of four different teachers, grades 9-12. I'm also lesson-planning with those teachers, so that also keeps me busy. The teachers are also different in terms of what they're looking to do and how they're looking to do it, so it keeps me interested to work with all of them. The students are eager--perhaps frustrated with the old textbook, which is at times way above their level, but eager.

I really like my living situation. I have the entire upstairs of the house to myself, which is toasty when it's hot out, but gives me a lot of room to just be myself. I'm currently sharing it with Coconut, a kitten that was given to me by my neighbor Poo and Ming (aunt and uncle), whom I like a lot. She is about 6 weeks old now, and she loves playing around with me. She's really friendly, so she wants to be wherever people are at all times, and just upon seeing me she starts purring really loudly. I made her a makeshift litter box in a big metal bowl that people use here for washing clothes (a 'clamm,' if you will) filled halfway with sand. It works!

My family also helps me really feel at home here. My little sister Li-Di has the cutest way of saying "Hi!" and also has a really spunky personality. It's her 4th birthday tomorrow--I gave her a stuffed animal that she seems to like a lot. Her little sister, my other little sister, Li-Ching, is just over one year old and took her first steps today. It's really exciting to be here for this part of their lives. When I stop living here (cayna hara) in 2010, I will have been a part of Li-Ching's life for more time than she will have lived without me in the house, which is crazy. They and their friends play a lot at the house, which is also nice, because, as you know if you know me, I love me some little people.

Their parents, my 'Big Brother' and 'Big Sister,' are also really awesome. My brother works in a nearby primary school and is pretty silent, but extremely handy around the house and occasionally surprisingly silly. My sister stays at home to take care of the kids, and she likes to joke around with me. She also has recently developed an interest in watching movies on my laptop with me, even though she doesn't speak English. We watched Love Actually the other day, and it was interesting to explain things like people having boyfriends and girlfriends when they are little kids and older without expecting to have to marry those people, people making out, people living together without being married, etc., with visual proof to back up my explanations. I also told her and her aunt (my Ming next door) about how we hug in the states, as people don't do it here much, especially not with friends of the opposite sex. Little by little. I tried out a public hug today with one of the other volunteers who had come into town to make pasta with fresh marinara sauce with me (Yes. It was delicious.), and it seemed to go over fine. (Fine as in they didn't think we were dating or I was a slut or anything.)

I'm growing to love my town more and more every day. It's small enough that it's easy for me to know a lot of people in the town and really make meaningful relationships. So far some of my favorite people (besides my family, of course!) are several friends who sew clothing at the market, the woman who sells me my Num Ban Chock for breakfast every day and has proclaimed herself my Mom in my town, a woman who has a fruit stand along the road and a beautiful smile, my super really awesome female co-teacher who speaks amazing English and has a great attitude about life, and the guy who fixes my bike for free at his little stand. It's a really nice place, extremely beautiful and filled with small-town charm. The dry season is just now trying to start here, so it's been really breezy and cool enough that I haven't been getting sweaty, which maybe to us back in New York was considered warm enough for 'Skirt Day' to happen, but here in Cambodia is considered cold enough for huge warm puffy coats.

In terms of my actual movements and actions around town and the province, I've biked several times to the two towns relatively close and twice to the provincial town, which is I think about 25 miles or so from where I am. It (the provincial town) is also really cushy, with everything from peanut butter to brownies--all at a price, of course. All the volunteers in the province (except Jason, who was out of commission because he caught dengue), also went to a small island called Rabbit Island off the coast for Halloween and had a lot of fun. It's nice to spend time with the other volunteers every once in a while, because it gives you a break from being somewhat of a small public figure and a chance to act out comfortable behaviors from home that in general are suppressed when dealing with Khmer people (like hugging or wearing bikinis to swim, for instance). Plus it's nice to be around people who can understand to some degree what kind of experience you are having--or just help you understand yourself.

I'm going to stop for now, just because I know if I make this much longer, you probably won't read it. If there's ever anything that you specifically want to know about--or know more about--please feel free to mention it in the comments or send me an email if it's something private!

Saturday, November 1, 2008

last photos from training



Photo of the people interviewing me at the swearing-in ceremony October 5



Another interview photo woooo



My host mom and I the last day I was there, at the market right before we left. So sad times.



L to R: Sutjeeah, Sutjeeah's little sister who is also my friend, my friend Sovanni Lai, and I



Sutjeeah and I at her house the day before I left




Sutjeeah's sister (Greg's Bong Sarai/Host Sister) and I



A big Cambodian gecko called 'Tuck Gai,'because that's the sound it makes. One used to live in my room in our training village and wake me up in the middle of the night with its antics. But apparently having one in your bedroom brings you good health.



My host mom and I! She is the BEST.